The top dog of the X-Class range has a big day out.

Base price: $88,325
Powertrain and performance: 3.0-litre turbodiesel V6, 190kW/550Nm, 7-speed automatic, AWD, Combined economy 9.0 litres per 100km.
Vital statistics: 5340mm long, 1819mm high, 3150mm wheelbase, 19-inch alloy wheels with 255/55 tyres.
We like: V6 oomph and refinement, SUV-level driving.. We don’t like: Nissan base inhibits inclusion of best Benz tech.

Halfway up a dizzyingly ascent, the tough part – a narrow, steepening zig zag. It’s max attack or risk the consequences.

We’re tracking a Ranger Raptor, sensible spacing in event the desert rig stumbles. It doesn’t – and neither does our vehicle. All the way to the top.

Perception: The Mercedes X-Class 350d is easily the equal of a like-priced Baja-basher. Take that, Henry.

Reality? Well, ahem, it wasn’t as hard as it looked. Terrain untouched by rain for weeks afforded such great grip a BMW X3, on road tyres and driven by a bloke enjoying his first ever off-road experience, also ran the gauntlet. Still, nothing like answering the call of the wild, right?

Where exactly was this X-hit spot?

Rugged Manawatu farm country opened for a four-wheel-drive trek raising funds for Beyond Disaster Relief NZ, a Bulls-based non-profit that assists Pacific Island communities rebuild after natural disasters. They’re never short of work.

As everyone knows, the X-Class is a re-engineered Nissan Navara. Although Germany’s contention the V6 editions are more Merc than Nissan is a bit of a stretch, it’s certainly true that in ditching the original drivetrain for seriously sorted home-grown bits - ‘4Matic’ permanent all-wheel drive, a six-cylinder turbodiesel with a bespoke seven-speed gearbox, with various driving modes – they’ve departed significantly from the donor.

Fitted with all the trimmings - side steps, roof rails, a silver sports bar – the mica black Power tester was the epitome of $90k-ish designer ute big ka-ching bling. Everyone took to calling it the Death Star.

Why would you buy it?

Star appeal. It’s an extra-showy step away from convention with appealing hardware behind the ‘right’ badge.

Rich oomph makes the hauling easier, it sounds good and while placing second of the two sub-category contenders in the 0-100kmh sprint, that claimed time of 7.9 seconds is C200 sedan-compatible and represents a 4.4s reduction on the four-cylinder X-Class.

Some turbo lag doesn’t spoil impression of this drivetrain being a beautiful thing; torque peaking between 1400 and 3200rpm makes it almost as relaxed in the muck as when cruising. The transmission is a perfect partner, being nicely vroomy in a shift-sharpening Sport mode and offering paddleshifts, too. The all-wheel-drive factor is another rarity that instantly earns its keep; this provision – plus the 70mm wider track and enhanced suspension tune – make it a more confident, calming and captivating drive than any part-time ute.

It was so hugely effortless on the off-road course that the organiser’s request to run with the diff lock on was ignored. Simply enabling low range with its 50:50 torque split and the Offroad mode, which reprogrammes the gearbox and reduces throttle responsiveness, did the trick. ‘High’ (30:70 preference) was fine for gravel while on seal we snicked back in the baseline 60 percent rear axle bias.

Why wouldn’t you buy it?

Because even though the Merc miracle work delivers a great powertrain plus such a planted and supple road feel you’re left with impression this has to be one of the most SUV-like utes out there …. it’s not enough.

Yes, it’s impressive how they’ve redesigned and improved in a myriad of places, including the traydeck that, while still retaining those clever Nissan tiedowns is slightly better shaped. Beyond the brilliance of introducing the whole top part of a Benz issue dash with factory instruments, rounded vents and a pukka steering wheel, it gets all sorts of other tweaks, from a stronger chassis to a fuel cover release that operates off the central locking, rather than a cheap trigger.

Yet is all this and a rich spec - electric front chairs with upmarket (though synthetic) cloth/leather trim, a tyre pressure monitor, keyless go, aluminium and black fabric cabin inserts, a brilliant 360-degree camera that makes backing up to a trailer a cinch – enough to convince this is the most thoroughbred of workhorses?

No, because it’s impossible to ignore those aspects that couldn’t feel change for good yet, you suspect, would have had this been a wholly Merc exercise. A steering column lacking reach adjust, cheaper plastics below the beltline, unsupportive seats, lots of budget buttons and a tight back seat all remind that, at the end of it all, you’re still anchored to a donor that the market long ago determined was an also-ran to the category sales champs.

The stymying of what should be the opus feature, that floating screen controlled by Benz's Comand rotary dial, reveals how much compromise has gone on. Disappointment about it delivering an old-school functionality retired from almost all other Benz vehicles – so, two generations behind the swish MBUX that’s just gone into Sprinter van with its voice-controlled AI system - amplifies when discovering sat-nav slowness and flaky phone hook-up. It’s probable the electronic architecture Mercedes has to wire into is the problem. However, that won’t wash with a buyer base who simply expect better from a brand that trades on ability to deliver the best.

It does better meeting safety expectation with seven airbags (including side protection in the rear seats, unlike the Amarok), but even with class-uncommon aids of autonomous emergency braking, lane-keeping assist and park assist, it doesn’t quite tick all boxes, with blind-spot monitoring and adaptive cruise control off the menu.

Buy or drive by?

The X350d delivers an intriguing blend of ‘made better’ and ‘make do’. It has smart kerbside appeal and is better-sorted and more enjoyable than the four-cylinders.

And yet … well, I know the V6 Amarok is older, yet comparing with a like-priced Aventura reminds that, while the whole idea of a $90k ute is plain dopey, if you’re spending that big, it’s better to Dub step.